FLOPPY STORK CROCHET PATTERN
Floppy Stork is the newest addition to my Floppy limbed line of amigurumi patterns. I hope you enjoy this cheeky little guy. I love how much attitude he came out with.
As with all my Floppy Limbed amigurumi patterns, a link is included to the i-cord tutorial I used to make the legs.
If you are making this for a younger child please embroider or needle felt the eyes. Though safety eyes are fairly reliable, little teeth can pry them off, or they can work their way through a loose stitch.
This pattern is written using US terminology.
– Worsted weight yarn (medium 4)
– Loops & Threads, Impeccable in White
– Red Heart, Super Saver in Pumpkin
– Loops & Threads, Impeccable in Dark Grey Heather
– 4mm hook
– 12mm doll safety eyes in brown (Not for children under 3. If you are making this for a smaller child please embroider or needle felt the eyes on)
– Doll making needle (or whatever needle you like to sew your pieces together extra firm.
– Optional: You can put a stuffing bomb in his bum to improve his sitting skills if you like. Just use pantyhose and fill it with some poly pellets.
Gauge is not important for this pattern. Just make sure it’s tight so your fiberfill doesn’t show through your stitches. If you are a loose hooker, you might want to go down an additional hook size to compensate for this.
ABREVIATIONS & STITCHES USED IN THIS PATTERN
R- round or row
FO- Finish off
Sl st- slip stitch
MC- magic circle
Sc- single crochet
Sc2tog- single crochet two together
Hdc- half double crochet
Tr- treble stitch
NOW FOR THE FUN PART…..
– Working in continuous rounds for head and body
– Use stitch marker to keep track of rounds.
– Use invisible decreases throughout (my You Tube tutorial can be found here)
HEAD (working from beak to back of head)
– Starting with your beak color
R 1- sc 4 into MC (4)
R 2 & R 3- (sc in ea st) around (4)
R 4- (sc into the next st, 2 sc into the next) around (6)
R 5- (sc in ea st) around (6)
R 6- (sc into each of the next two sts, 2 sc into the next) around (8)
R 7 & R 8- (sc in ea st) around (8)
R 9- (sc into the next st, 2 sc into the next) around (12)
R 10- (sc in ea st) around (12)
R 11- (sc into ea of the next 2 sts, 2 sc into the next) around (16)
– Sl st into next st and FO
– Change to main color
R 12- (sc into the next 3 sts, 2 sc into the next) around (20)
R 13- (sc into the next 4 sts, 2 sc into the next) around (24)
R 14- sc in ea of the next 3 sts, (1 hdc, 2 hdc in the next st) three times, 1 hdc, sc in ea of the next 7 sts, (sc2tog) two times, sc in ea of the last 3 sc (25)
-Mark center of forehead, in center of the half double crochet stitches. This will help with eye and ear placement later.
R 15 to R 17- sc in ea st around (25)
R 18- (sc in ea of the next 3 sts, sc2tog) around (20)
R 19- (sc in ea of the next 2 sts, sc2tog) around (15)
R 20- (sc in the next st, sc2tog) around (10)
– Place eyes (if using safety eyes)
– Do not stuff down into the beak
– Stuff head normally (careful not to overstuff)
– FO with long tail and do a drawstring close.
– Use the long end for needle sculpting the bill, and tuck the eyes as desired.
BODY (working from neck down to bottom)
R 1- sc 6 into mc (6)
R 2- (sc into the next st, sc 2 into the next) around (9)
R 3 – R 8- sc in ea st around (9)
R 9- (sc in ea of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next) around (12)
R 10- sc in ea st around (12)
R 11- (sc in ea of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the next) around (15)
R 12- sc in ea st around (15)
R 13- (sc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next) around (18)
R 14-(sc in ea of the next 5 sts, 2 sc in the next) around (21)
R 15 & R 16- sc in ea st around (21)
R 17- (sc in ea of the next 6 sts, 2 sc in the next) around (24)
R 18- (sc in ea of the next 7 sts, 2 sc in the next) around (27)
R 19 & R 20- sc in ea st around (27)
R 21- (sc in the next st, sc2tog) around (18)
– If you haven’t done so already, get stuffin’
R 22- repeat round 21 (12)
R 23- (sc2tog) around (6)
– FO. Weave closed.
WINGS (make 2)
– Start in white with long tail to use to sew wing to the body
R 1- ch 5, turn
R 2- sc in 2nd ch from hook and ea of the remaining 3, ch 4, turn
R 3- sk all ch sts, sk 3 sc, sl st in last sc st
R 4- ch 2 (counts as dc), dc 7 into ch 4 sp, turn (8)
R5- ch 3 (counts as dc, ch 1), dc in next st, (ch1, dc in next st) five times, turn
R 6- ch 2 (does not count as dc), (dc, ch 1, dc) in ea ch 1 sp across (should have 6 V st clusters) turn
– FO, leave long tail to darn in
– Change to black yarn
R 7- join yarn in the top of the last dc worked, ch 1 in same space as join, (3 dc in next ch 1 sp, sc between V sts) across (should have a total of 6 scallops)
– FO, darn ends
– Sew wings flat to body through the beginning 4 sc
TAIL (in white)
– Locate the stitches back and center, where you would like to place the tail.
– Working though the posts of the stitches, insert hook pointing down towards his feet
R 1- join, ch 2, tr 2 times in the same st, tr 3 in next st, tr 2 in 3rd st, ch 2, sl st in same st.
– FO, hide ends inside the body
FEET (make 2)
The same feet are used for Floppy Stork as for Floppy bird.
- working in orange yarn
– Start and finish with long tail. Bring tail up through legs and hide ends in the body. Ends have a way of working their way out of i-cord, bringing them to the body eliminates this problem.
R 1- ch 4, working in the back bumbs of ch, sl st in closest ch to hook, sl st in the next 2 ch, sc in the last ch.
R 2- ch 1, turn, sc in the next sc, ch 4, working in the back bumbs of ch, sl st in closest ch to hook, sl st in next 3 chains, sc in sc st, ch 3,
sl st in the closest ch to the hook, sl st in next 2 chains (this forms the back toe),
sl st in the sc on the other side of the middle toe (between the first & the second toe),
ch 1, bring ch over the back toe just made and sc in the sc st on the other side of the middle toe
R 3- ch 3, working in the back bumbs of the ch, sl st in the closest ch to the hook, sl st in the next 2 ch, sc in the last sc st from R 2.
R 4- Working across the bottom of the foot, insert hook, yo, pull up loop under middle toe and above the back toe (fold the back toe against the bottom of the foot to do this), insert hook in corner st, yo, pull up loop (3 loops on hook)
R 5- use 3 loops on hook to begin i-cord
– Do NOT finish off
The link for how to make the I-cord for his legs can be found here:
– To make i-cord
– Beginning with 3 loops on hook
R 1- Drop 2 loops (pinch them so that they don’t unravel), ch 1, pick up 2nd loop & ch 1, pick up last loop & ch 1
R 2- R 20- slip 2 sts off the hook and repeat R 1
– To finish, yo, pull through all three, yo, pull through one.
– Leave long tail to sew legs to the body.
Did you enjoy my Floppy Stork crochet pattern? Have you finished your stork? Hop on over to my Facebook group (Frog Hooker Crochet Colony) and share a picture. We would love to see it!
Design by Rachel Hilz. Please do not copy or sell this pattern. You are more than welcome to do whatever you wish with your final piece, but please link back to my pattern if selling online.
Love & Light,
The Frog Hooker