FLOPPY DUCK CROCHET PATTERN
Well, the Floppy Duck crochet pattern started out as a Floppy Bird, but he was looking less and less like a bird, and more like a duck as the pattern came together. So, with a few minor tweaks, Floppy Duck was hatched. He has made quite a splash on Facebook, and I know many of you have been waiting for this Floppy Duck crochet pattern, so here he is, all ready to go.
I hope you enjoy him. As with all my Floppy Limbed amigurumi patterns, a link is included to the i-cord tutorial I used to make the legs.
This Floppy Duck crochet pattern contains small parts. If you are making this for a younger child please embroider or needle felt the eyes, and sew pieces on extra firm.
This pattern is written using US terminology.
MATERIALS USED IN THE FLOPPY DUCK CROCHET PATTERN
– Worsted weight yarn (medium 4)
– Loops & Threads, Impeccable in Butterscotch
– Red Heart, Super Saver in Pumpkin
– 4mm hook
– 15mm doll safety eyes in yellow (Not for children under 3. If you are making this for a smaller child please embroider or needle felt the eyes on)
– Doll making needle (or whatever needle you like to sew your pieces together extra firm.
– Optional: You can put a stuffing bomb in his bum to improve his sitting skills if you like. Just use pantyhose and fill it with some poly pellets.
Gauge is not important for this pattern. Just make sure it’s tight so your fiberfill doesn’t show through your stitches. If you are a loose hooker, you might want to go down an additional hook size to compensate for this.
ABREVIATIONS USED IN THIS PATTERN
R- round or row
FO- Finish off
Sl st- slip stitch
MC- magic circle
Sc- single crochet
Sc2tog- single crochet two together
Hdc- half double crochet
Tr- Treble stitch
NOW FOR THE FUN PART…..
– Working in continuous rounds for head and body
– Use stitch marker to keep track of rounds.
– Use invisible decreases throughout (my You Tube tutorial can be found here)
HEAD (working from beak to back of head)
– Starting with your beak color
R 1- sc 4 into MC (4)
R 2- (2 sc into each st) around (8)
R 3 & R 4- (sc in ea st) around (8)
R 5- (1 sc into the next st, 2 sc into the next) around (12)
R 6- (sc in ea st) around (12)
R 7- (1 sc into ea of the next 2 sts, 2 sc into the next) around (16)
– Sl st into next st and FO
– Change to main color
R 8- (1 sc into the next 3 sts, 2 sc into the next) around (20)
R 9- (1 sc into the next 4 sts, 2 sc into the next) around (24)
R 10- sc in ea of the next 3 sts, (1 hdc, 2 hdc in the next st) three times, 1 hdc, sc in ea of the next 7 sts, (sc2tog) two times, sc in ea of the last 3 sc (25)
-Mark center of forehead, in center of the half double crochet stitches. This will help with eye and ear placement later.
R 11 to R 13- sc in ea st around (25)
R 14- (sc in ea of the next 3 sts, sc2tog) around (20)
R 15- (sc in ea of the next 2 sts, sc2tog) around (15)
R 16- (sc in the next st, sc2tog) around (10)
– Stuff head, place eyes (if using safety eyes)
– FO with long tail and do a drawstring close.
– Use the long end for needle sculpting the bill, and tuck the eyes as desired.
– With a length of yarn folded four thick, make eyelids by twisting yarn together, and sewing over the first eye, from outside corner to inside corner of the eye, run yarn under the section between eyes, and over the other eye from inside to outside corner. Secure with a knot in the area to be covered by the neck. You can further tack eyelids in place with a single length of yarn, if you find the need.
BODY (working from neck down to bottom)
R 1- sc 6 into mc (6)
R 2- (sc into the next st, sc 2 into the next) around (9)
R 3- sc in ea st around (9)
R 4- (sc in ea of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next) around (12)
R 5- sc in ea st around (12)
R 6- (sc in ea of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the next) around (15)
R 7- sc in ea st around (15)
R 8- (sc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next) around (18)
R 9-(sc in ea of the next 5 sts, 2 sc in the next) around (21)
R 10 & R 11- sc in ea st around (21)
R 12- (sc in ea of the next 6 sts, 2 sc in the next) around (24)
R 13- (sc in ea of the next 7 sts, 2 sc in the next) around (27)
R 14 & R 15- sc in ea st around (27)
R 16- (sc in the next st, sc2tog) around (18)
– If you haven’t done so already, get stuffin’
R 17- repeat round 16 (12)
R 18- (sc2tog) around (6)
– FO. Weave closed.
WINGS (make 2)
– Start with long tail to use to sew wing to the body
R 1- ch 5, turn
R 2- sc in 2nd ch from hook and ea of the remaining 3, ch 4, turn
R 3- sk all ch sts, sk 3 sc, sl st in last sc st
R 4- ch 2 (counts as dc), dc 7 into ch 4 sp, turn
R5- ch 3 (counts as dc, ch 1), dc in next st, (ch1, dc in next st) five times, turn
R 6- ch 2 (does not count as dc), (dc, ch 1, dc) in ea ch 1 sp across (should have 6 V st clusters) turn
R 7-ch 2 (counts as dc), 2 dc in first ch 1 sp, sc between V sts, (3 dc in next ch 1 sp, sc between V sts) across (should have a total of 6 scallops)
– FO, darn ends
– Sew wings flat to body through the beginning 4 sc
– Insert hook pointing downwards through the center stitch on the bum
R 1 – join with sl st, ch 2, (2 dc, tr, 2dc) through same stitch as sl st, ch 2, sl st in same stitch.
– FO, hide ends in the body.
-Start and finish with long tail. Bring tail up through arms and hide ends in the body. Ends have a way of working their way out of i-cord, bringing them to the body eliminated this problem.
R 1- ch 4, working in the back bumps of ch, sl st in closest ch to hook, sl st in the next ch, sc in ea of the last 2 chains.
R 2- ch 1, turn, sc in ea of the next 2 sc, ch 3, working in the back bumbs of ch, sl st in closest ch to hook, sl st in next 2 chains, sc in ea of the next 2 sc.
R 3- ch 1, turn, sc in ea of the next 2 sc, ch 2, working in the back bumbs of the ch, sl st in the closest ch to the hook, sl st in the next ch, sc in the next 2 sc.
R 4- Working across the bottom of the foot, insert hook, yo, pull up loop under middle toe, insert hook in corner st, yo, pull up loop (3 loops on hook)
R 5- use 3 loops on hook to begin i-cord
– Do NOT finish off
– To make i-cord
– Beginning with 3 loops on hook
R 1- Drop 2 loops (pinch them so that they don’t unravel), ch 1, pick up 2nd loop & ch 1, pick up last loop & ch 1
R 2- R 10- sl 2 sts off the hook and repeat R 1
– To finish, yo, pull through all three, yo, pull through one.
– Leave long tail to sew arms to the body.
Did you enjoy my Floppy Duck crochet pattern? Have you finished your duck? Hop on over to my Facebook group (Frog Hooker Crochet Colony) and share a picture. We would love to see it!
Floppy Duck Crochet Pattern is designed by Rachel Hilz. Please do not copy or sell this pattern. You are more than welcome to do whatever you wish with your final piece, but please link back to my pattern if selling online.
Love & Light,
The Frog Hooker